After our failed attempt to get to the Dead Sea, we pull into the first gas station we see. There are camels tied to tires for tourists to sit on and pay to have their pictures taken. Far away I can see the Dead Sea. The three guys jump out of the car to have a mini-conference about the situation and figure out what to do next.
Post the horrendous experience I’m ready to throw in the towel and just forget the whole thing. Sama and I defiantly strip down to our tank tops which were reserved for the beach. We girls start to take pictures of ourselves in front of the Dead Sea. “The closest 6+ got to the Dead Sea.” It is a joke, and the only way I can feel better.
The Closest We Got to The Sea (taken by Rozalinda)
The boys come back smiling. “No problem. The checkpoint closes at 5pm and since its a Jewish holiday, no one should be there at night. We’ll go then….and in the meantime we’ll go to Jericho.”
They can’t be serious. There is absolutely no way we’re going to make it through that checkpoint, but I play along.
Another checkpoint. Another exchange of ID’s, press passes, and passports. The guard stays in his booth. He has dreadlocks. After a few minutes of questions we pass.
One hundred feet away is another checkpoint, manned by the Palestinian soldiers. They are sitting on the side of the road and wave as we drive by.
The Americans want coffee, everyone wants nargila. Haneen knows a restaurant. Turns out it is closed for Ramadan. But the skylift to the Mountain of 40 Days and 40 Nights (also known as the Mount of Temptation) is open. It holds the Guinness Book of World Records for being the longest cable car lift operating beneath sea-level in the world.
There are no tourists. Jericho, the oldest city in the world, seems empty. Like Bethlehem, Jericho is one of the biblical towns who’s tourism is slowly being strangled by the Wall and Occupation. Sometimes I wonder if Christians even know.
But like Bethlehem, despite the emptiness there is something special about Jericho you can’t put your finger on.
Riding to the top of the mountain we can see the Dead Sea. The western bank of the Dead Sea in the West Bank. Also a bit of the Jordan River, where Jesus was supposedly baptized, but no one can go there because it is a closed Israeli military zone. We crossed over it coming in over the Allenby Bridge. We get to the top and head for the cafe. Only two men are there. One to operate the skylift, the other to run the cafe. We feel strange and there is a frenzy of picture-taking. Pictures of us taking pictures of us taking pictures. All of the men present, our friends and the 2 guys on top of the Mountain of Temptation, must think we’re crazy. Maybe its the only way to cope with what happened earlier. We’re artists, we do weird things under stress.
Mountain of 40 Days and 40 Nights
Coffee and water. It is getting close to 5pm. The 2 men are getting anxious. It is Ramadan and time to break the fast. We head back down. The emptiness and eerie quiet makes me sad.
We will try our luck with the Dead Sea one more time.
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