Mary Rachel Fanning

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The Dead Sea

The Dead Sea has arrived

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To my friends and family:

Remember how you asked about my first trip to the West Bank? And how I told you I was writing about one day and that would sum it up? Well, I’ve finally finished a dense, rambling, journal entry. Not a bad construction from memory since I accidentally left my journal on a plane at Frankfort Airport.

Maybe something from December will arrive by Summer.

If you look to the right under “Categories,” all 6 posts are under “The Dead Sea.” The beauty of blogs is that you can manipulate posting times so they actually read in sequential order.

Haneen and Zuzu Make a Plan For the Checkpoint (shot by Rozalinda)

One thing I would like to pre-emptively express is that my experience was privileged, seeing as our friends who took us had ID’s that said “Bethlehem” and “Beit Hanoun”….as opposed to “Hebron” and “Nablus.” But I think you’ll get the picture…..

Getting to the Dead Sea

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Today we will go to the Dead Sea.

I will think of Moses. Moses parted the Red Sea. But my friends can’t drive me to the Red Sea.

Zuzu will take half of us in his BMW convertible. Haneen and Mohammed will take half of us in the white rental car. It is only an hour and a half away. It will be a mini-vacation. We will wear swimsuits and tank-tops because it is acceptable there, because of all the foreigners. We will have delicous food, heineckens, and nargila with our friends. We will rub ourselves all over with Dead Sea mud. It will make our skin look nice. My swimsuit is in my lost suitcase, but I will borrow a tank top from Sama. I will think of Moses.

No one told me it would be so difficult to get there. And that even if we did, our odds were slim to none of actually getting to the shore.
Zuzu and Sama [Read more…] about Getting to the Dead Sea

Jericho as Plan B

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After our failed attempt to get to the Dead Sea, we pull into the first gas station we see. There are camels tied to tires for tourists to sit on and pay to have their pictures taken. Far away I can see the Dead Sea. The three guys jump out of the car to have a mini-conference about the situation and figure out what to do next.

Post the horrendous experience I’m ready to throw in the towel and just forget the whole thing. Sama and I defiantly strip down to our tank tops which were reserved for the beach. We girls start to take pictures of ourselves in front of the Dead Sea. “The closest 6+ got to the Dead Sea.” It is a joke, and the only way I can feel better.

The Closest We Got to The Sea (taken by Rozalinda)

[Read more…] about Jericho as Plan B

for real?

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I am in Zuzu’s car with Sama when we leave Jericho. We hand over our ID’s and passports again at the checkpoint. The soldier laughs and says, “Wow, so you’re traveling in-style,” nodding at Zuzu’s BMW. “Have a nice time here in Israel.”

Its dusk and we turn onto the road where we’re hoping the next checkpoint won’t be. The gun stand is empty and there are no concrete barriers. I catch my breath as we drive past.

[Read more…] about for real?

Dead Sea By Night

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The Phenomenon of Haneen and Zuzu Floating Next to Israeli Tourists

When everyone gets dressed and back down to the shore, it is dark outside. The water and sky are pitch black aside from the soft lights of the beach club. Very far away are the lights of the Jordanian resorts. I wonder if they would be friendlier to our little group of Americans, 1 Brit, 1 Romanian, and Palestinians? Its a good question because often Palestinians are treated similarly in other Arab countries. You never know with Americans. It tends to be dichotomous…loved or hated..and its not like any of us Americans have a lot of money to win over any tourism enterprise. [Read more…] about Dead Sea By Night