Mary Rachel Fanning

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Traveling Commentary

Academics Missing in Baghdad and Zuzu Gets a Job

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Sometimes news from the Middle East hits me in strange places.

Today, many people kidnapped at a Baghdad research institute and Al-Jazeera is going worldwide with the United States’ favorite language, English.

Dr. Hameed Alshaibi (Sama’s father who was so gracious to us in Amman…and with my lost bag) was a professor in Baghdad. Then he moved to Jordan where he is still a professor, and lives with his lovely wife Intesar and their two young sons. All of Intesar’s and most of Dr. Alshaibi’s family still live in Iraq. They have lost many family members lately; you can see it in their faces. Intesar still finds ways to go back and visit. [Read more…] about Academics Missing in Baghdad and Zuzu Gets a Job

The Ordeal of Arrival

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We made it.
I don’t quite understand the “no liquids” on an airplane rule. Couldn’t they give us lip balm or lotion on the plane? Or at least offer us more water? It was tortuous going so many hours without. Sama and I were so dehydrated In Frankfort we had to refuel with a couple Red Bulls and were using the testers in the Duty Free Stores. Sherry and Wendy met us at the gate and we headed to Amman.

[Read more…] about The Ordeal of Arrival

Crossing the Bridge–Part 1

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Today’s the day we attempt to get into the West Bank. We have a good shot, but nothing’s guaranteed since the Israeli government has been turning away many foreigners who work for NGO’s or who may be affiliated with the International Solidarity Movement. Therefore we make a conscious effort to not look like hippies. I borrow a nice shirt from Sherry and make-up from Sama. Intesar lets me borrow her suitcase. We are armed with official invitations from a church in Jerusalem and have been coached on what to and what not to say.

[Read more…] about Crossing the Bridge–Part 1

Over the Bridge–Part 2

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Before we left in the morning, we were on the phone with Zuzu (which means Joseph). He and a friend were going to pick us up in Jericho after our travel across The Bridge and take us to his home in Ramallah. He had gone to Bethlehem to get something done to his papers. The Israelis detained him. He was probably going to have to stay overnight and Suad, his wife was on her way down from Ramallah to try to help him. But he probably would not be able to pick us up to say the least. If we get through, we will go the long way…mini-bus to Jerusalem….then mini-bus to Al Qalandia checkpoint. Then a cab to The Office, where Zuzu and his assistant, Mohammed work. The taxi industry in Israel and Palestine will make a lot of money from us on this trip. [Read more…] about Over the Bridge–Part 2

Getting to Ramallah

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Out of the Customs Building, we negotiate a mini-bus to Jerusalem. There we will negotiate a mini-bus to the Al Qalandia Checkpoint. There we will then figure out how to get to The Office in Ramallah. Since Zuzu is now definitely stuck in Bethlehem over the night, we are constantly on the phone with Mohammed.

We pass Jericho and see the Dead Sea far far away. [Read more…] about Getting to Ramallah