Mary Rachel Fanning | Portfolio
I am in Zuzu’s car with Sama when we leave Jericho. We hand over our ID’s and passports again at the checkpoint. The soldier laughs and says, “Wow, so you’re traveling in-style,” nodding at Zuzu’s BMW. “Have a nice time here in Israel.”
Its dusk and we turn onto the road where we’re hoping the next checkpoint won’t be. The gun stand is empty and there are no concrete barriers. I catch my breath as we drive past.
When everyone gets dressed and back down to the shore, it is dark outside. The water and sky are pitch black aside from the soft lights of the beach club. Very far away are the lights of the Jordanian resorts. I wonder if they would be friendlier to our little group of Americans, 1 Brit, 1 Romanian, and Palestinians? Its a good question because often Palestinians are treated similarly in other Arab countries. You never know with Americans. It tends to be dichotomous…loved or hated..and its not like any of us Americans have a lot of money to win over any tourism enterprise. [Read more…] about Dead Sea By Night
We leave Jericho the back way to get back to Ramallah. We do not want to take our chances with Mohammed at the previous checkpoint. Haneen says we will take what they call the Curvy Road. It will only take about an hour. I sit up front.
There are no street lights going the back way. It is black outside. There is no moon. The headlights of our cars are the only thing illuminating what is around us. We curve in and out of the mountains. Its like driving in Colorado, except there are no trees in this part of the West Bank and the earth and rocks are alabaster white. [Read more…] about The Final 3 Hours
Today’s the day we attempt to get into the West Bank. We have a good shot, but nothing’s guaranteed since the Israeli government has been turning away many foreigners who work for NGO’s or who may be affiliated with the International Solidarity Movement. Therefore we make a conscious effort to not look like hippies. I borrow a nice shirt from Sherry and make-up from Sama. Intesar lets me borrow her suitcase. We are armed with official invitations from a church in Jerusalem and have been coached on what to and what not to say.
